June 27, 2007
Steam Pressing Fulled Wool
A lot of my fiber work uses fulled wool, which is essentially wool felt created with the process of fulling rather than felting. All that is rather confusing, more simply put, I wash wool fabrics (knitted and woven) in hot soapy water several times until the scales on the wool mesh, and the fabric turns into felt. This felt is wonderful to work with, it is dense and doesn't ravel, and the fulling softens even the scratchiest wool considerably.
Most of the felt I make is from recycled garments, and I start by removing labels, fasteners, etc, then I turn the garment inside out and put it into a pillowcase which is then tied closed. If I am working with "fast fulling" wools (angora and very fine merino, among others), I remove any pockets (unless I want double thickness felt in that spot) and cut along all the seams except the shoulders. This keeps those garments from fulling into themselves because they felt almost instantly. With most wools I wait to cut the seams open until the garment is about half way fulled because it the edges will distort if cut too early, resulting in less useable felt. Once the felt is finished and dry, I trim off the seams and (usually) any ribbed collars, cuffs, etc. At that point, the felt is quite wrinkled and creased, and needs to be steam pressed.
unpressed wool felt
The tool I use for the job is a Rowenta steam press. Steam irons just aren't up to the task, even when used with a very wet pressing cloth. There are still some pieces I cannot press as flat as I would like with this steam press, but it does a fine job with the majority of my felt.
Rowenta steam press
wool felt after pressing
After pressing, the felt is quite damp and needs to be air dried. I left the ribbing on the white pieces pictured above (Shetland wool) because it fulled into a beautiful textured section of felt. I've found that most ribbing doesn't full at all, in which case I trim it off.
Most of the felt I make is from recycled garments, and I start by removing labels, fasteners, etc, then I turn the garment inside out and put it into a pillowcase which is then tied closed. If I am working with "fast fulling" wools (angora and very fine merino, among others), I remove any pockets (unless I want double thickness felt in that spot) and cut along all the seams except the shoulders. This keeps those garments from fulling into themselves because they felt almost instantly. With most wools I wait to cut the seams open until the garment is about half way fulled because it the edges will distort if cut too early, resulting in less useable felt. Once the felt is finished and dry, I trim off the seams and (usually) any ribbed collars, cuffs, etc. At that point, the felt is quite wrinkled and creased, and needs to be steam pressed.
unpressed wool felt
The tool I use for the job is a Rowenta steam press. Steam irons just aren't up to the task, even when used with a very wet pressing cloth. There are still some pieces I cannot press as flat as I would like with this steam press, but it does a fine job with the majority of my felt.
Rowenta steam press
wool felt after pressingAfter pressing, the felt is quite damp and needs to be air dried. I left the ribbing on the white pieces pictured above (Shetland wool) because it fulled into a beautiful textured section of felt. I've found that most ribbing doesn't full at all, in which case I trim it off.
Labels: tools
¶ 3:40 PM
